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 07-12-2009, 19:04 Post: 163986
earthwrks

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 Concrete slabs and concrete posts

You might want to forego the post-type building and just erect a standard wood-framed or even an open-truss or clearspan steel building. This is better for many reasons. Cost is about the same; easier and quicker to make the footer; no issues about post alignment or rotting at or below ground; insulating or isolating the slab is easier; insulating a stud wall is easier as is installing any type of wall board.






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 07-13-2009, 15:26 Post: 164016
earthwrks

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 Concrete slabs and concrete posts

Another reason to use a "Sonotube" is hole collapse. I've augered many a hole--up to 24" diameter and 13' deep. ANY gound water allowed to gather in the hole will in short order collapse a hole. It can take a days--or the conditions are right--minutes.

And the deeper you go the harder it is to make the hole straight or plumb---unless you're siing a rig that drills perfectly straight. Aside from that, you'll have to over-auger the hole size plenty to be sure you can just drop the tube in and not have to pound on it which will destroy it.

There are different types of generic Sonotubes too. Some are waxed inside or out. Some are made to be easily removed (for above-ground use). Because they're made of paper and will rot if in moist conditions, you might want to consider wrpapping them with thick-mil polyethylene sheeting for reasons Murf mentioned about frost heaving.

Also, the coated tubes are made to resist water in a hole if they have to sit there unfilled. If not they will come apart.

You didn't specify what you would be backfilling with--earth, stone, pea gravel, or concrete. Around here the debate rages about pouring concrete around the poles which leads to rot because the posts shrink which gives water a place to stay. I think I'd consider applying tar to the ends and sides of the posts then wrapping them with poly sheeting--the tar isolates them from moisture and the poly allows for slippery anti-heave surface.






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